Åter till Afrika!

Hej igen gamla vänner! trodde ärligt talat att jag aldrig mer skulle skriva något på den här bloggen, men ja.. här är jag nu tillbaka! =) Anledningen är att jag skall åka tillbaka till Malawi, på en snabbvisit i Augusti. Kommer bara stanna en månad, men gud så underbart det skall bli att återuppleva detta fantastiska land igen!! =D Jag längtar så det finns inga ord att beskriva det med...!! Jag ska ta med mig min Pascal och vi ska njuta av allt det underbara Malawi har att erbjuda! Jag kan knappt vänta, och det enda Pascal hör hemma nu är "malawi malawi malawi..."! =D Tur att han är en tålmodig själ... I vilket fall! Jag ska försöka hjälpa till på sjukhuset också när jag är där, vi ska bo precis grannar med sjukhuset bara 5 meter från mitt gamla hus! =). Jag vill nu försöka ta med mig något ner till sjukhuset. Jag ska försöka skriva till företag och se vad jag kan få tag i, kanska kanske vi kan få lite hjälp eller lite rabatter någoinstans? Har även startat en facebookgrupp där jag kommer skriva mycket mer, jag uppdaterar egentligen bara den här sidan för att de jag skriver till ska kunna gå in och läsa gamla inlägg om de vill. Facebookgruppen heter "Lilla MalawiHjälpen <3" . Gå gärna in och besök den, skriv till mig om det är något ni undrar! =) Min email är: [email protected]

Tack och Hej! =D

Over and out!

So, I have now finished all of the "post-malawi-work".. Reports are written, lectures has been hold. . The adventure is ove, and it feels so sad. Also another thing that is over is the relationship with Christian. I went one way, he went another way... It didn't work out. But I am still thankful for the support and love he gave me when I lived in Malawi.. 

There is nothing left for me in Bergen now, so I have decided to move back home to Sweden. It feels really good, I am ready to come home now =)

Please check out my new home page; www.123minsida.se/mariamalawi where I am trying to collect money to sent to Olivia, Wilfred and Mr. Lemon. =)

I will miss writing this blog, and I am so thankful for everyone who followed me on this blog.. Thank you so much... =)

Over and out!

Zikomo kwambiri!

Maria

Travelled back in time...?

One year ago, I was in Bergen. Playing Dragon Age. Listening to my favorite music. Eating dolly dimples pizza's.

Than I went to Malawi for one year.

Today, I am in Bergen. Playing Dragon Age. Listening to my favorite music (the same as last year). Eating dolly dimples pizza's.

***

Last year, I was sad because I couldn't be with my boyfriend because I was leaving for Africa.

Then I went to Malawi for one year..

Today, I am sad because I can't be with my boyfriend because he is wroking on a boat outside south america.

It is so strange! After everything I have been through and experienced in Malawi... Is life supposed to just go back to.... normal? And yet, it doesn't feel normal.. It's a little bit... "Kafka-like". Surreal, creepy, and yet nice...

A little bit like tasting an old, favorite dish. It is familiar and very nice, but you feel like you want to add something to it. You don't want to leave it, but... yeah, make it better. Give it more substance and meaning...

Yepp... I need to spice things up here...

buuut I will wait a few weeks.. Right now, it is actually very, very comfortable with just being with myself, doing nothing.. =)


We will meet again

BYE MALAWI!!!

Leaving on a Jetplane - John Denver
*
All my bags are packed I'm ready to go
I'm standin' here outside your door
I hate to wake you up to say goodbye
But the dawn is breakin' it's early morn
The taxi's waitin' he's blowin' his horn
Already I'm so lonesome I could die

So kiss me and smile for me
Tell me that you'll wait for me
Hold me like you'll never let me go

Cause I'm leavin' on a jet plane
Don't know when I'll be back again

Oh babe, I hate to go
Now the time has come to leave you
One more time let me kiss you
Close your eyes I'll be on my way
Dream about the days to come
When I won't have to leave alone
About the times, I won't have to say

So kiss me and smile for me
Tell me that you'll wait for me
Hold me like you'll never let me go

Cause I'm leavin' on a jet plane
Don't know when I'll be back again

Oh babe, I hate to go
Cause I'm leavin' on a jet plane
Don't know when I'll be back again
Oh babe, I hate to go
*

Sadness.
Listening to this song on the plane and can't help but crying and think about everything... After 10 months of hard work and beautiful journeys and two days of non-stop crying and unbearable good byes, I am finally at home. It feels unreal, fantastic, sad and wonderful. When I think about Nkhoma, it feels like I am just on vacation and as if I'm going back to Malawi in a few weeks. I came to Bergen today, april 15, around 10 am, but it feels so.. unreal that I actually was in Malawi yesterday, together with Olivia, Gomez, Bertha and all the others...it is sad, so sad... And wierd. That the adventure in Malawi is over. The year has past, we are done with our work. Nkhoma hospital now has a new emergency unit, a new triage-system and new routines and protocols... I cant understand that we have actually been able to do what we have done.. When I think back at all the struggles and all the work... I can't believe we actually managed to complete it! It feels like it has all been a dream right now... But also it feels like a dream being home, and as if Nkhoma and Malawi is "the real life"... I tell you, this is a very confusing situation. =)
I have left the most wonderful friends behind in Malawi... And it is my sincere wish and hope that I will meet you all again. Gomez, bertha, nyathipa, florence.... Olivia! Elisabeth.. Stella... Aaa all of you wonderful wonderful people.. Some Johnny Cash straight from my heart to all of you;
Let's say goodbye with a smile, dear,
Just for a while, dear, we must part.
Don't let the parting upset you,
I'll not forget you, sweetheart.

We'll meet again, don't know where, don't know when,
But I know we'll meet again, some sunny day.
Keep smiling through, just like you always do,
'Til the blue skies drive the dark clouds far away.

So will you please say hello to the folks that I know,
Tell them I won't be long.
They'll be happy to know that as you saw me go,
I was singing this song.

After the rain comes the rainbow,
You'll see the rain go, never fear,
We two can wait for tomorrow,
Goodbye to sorrow, my dear.


Olivia is waving good bye


Goodbye Sprut and Fainess <3

Happiness!! =D

Now I am with my Christian, and I am as happy as can be. He is the most wonderful man I've ever met (You need proof? Listen to this: he forced me into a shoe store today and bought me new shoes. How's that for an example of his fantastic-ness?). I just can't believe he is mine! I am so happy to be home.. It gives me shivers. I cant understand that it is true, and not a dream!! I woke up on saturday morning. Before I had opened my eyes, I was convinced that I was still in Nkhoma under the mosquito net and the me coming home, was just a dream. I didn't wanna open my eyes, and see that it had just been a dream that I was home, with Christian. I didn't wanna wake up and see the dirty roof and feel the smell of old DOOM spray in the room, and realize that is, as usually, just had been a dream that I was now back home with Christian (I can't tell you how many times I've dreamt that!!)

But I did open my eyes, and TADA! There he was! Christian! In his apartment in Bergen! YEEAHHHHJJJJ!!! No mosquito net! No nkhoma! HOME!!! Wonderful.

* * *
So.. I am home, and I guess this is the end... In a way.
Maybe there will be another blogg entry here later on...And I guess I might continue blogging.
But for now I want to say Good bye everybody! Thank you so much for reading my blog. I am so happy for all the readers, you know one day I had over 300 readers! But mostly I have had around 50 per day. I am so happy for that! It is so cool that so many people wanted to read... =)
So, thank you very much.

Sikomo kwambiri asiamyi, asibambo. Ndi ku sowa kwambiri, ndi kukondi kwambiri.
Pepani, pompano ndi kupita ku nyumba... =(

Mulungo akadalitseni.. <3


One last picture of Lake Malawi.... <3

Signing Out....

This is Me,

signing out...

 

Farewell dear Nkhoma. I don't know what to say.. What I feel right now is stronger and yet more delicate than anything I've ever felt before. To say good bye to all the people I love here, especially Olivia... It broke my heart. Completely. Mr. Lemon, Wilfred, Victor, Langton,Elisabeth... Gomez and Bertha (who spends the night here cause I am to devastated to sleep), Nyathipa.. Justice... Florence, Stella, Eliza, Rebecca, Dr. Morton, Dr. Nagy, Alex, Dickson, Daniel, Sam, Martha, Mrs Sedek, Beatrice, Gertrude.... Mrs Sambani, Mr Madetsa... Mercy,, Ndasisira... Jessie and James...

 

The Nagy kids, the Madetsa kids, the Ter Haar kids, the Jones kids...

 

Spot and sprut....I have sprut here now, I don't know where Spot is.. I pet Sprut and bury my nose in her fur.. Just smelling her.. These dogs, especially Spot, has meant the world for me since I came here.. I just start crying again now just by thinking about him, so I better try to stop.. But it doesn't really matter, I've been Crying non stop all day long anyway....

 

The absolute worst part was to say good bye to Olivia.. She is the one person her in Malawi that I truly feel for the most, deep in my heart.. She is always so happy.. always smiling, no matter what problem she faces.. She always says “Aaa NO problem!” and laughs... But today, she took me in to my room and hugged me, and just started crying so heavily. Crying as if her heart was pouring out with the tears.. She don't speak english, but I told her how much she means to me, and I know that she understood me. If I could help her... If I could take away what is ruining her life by cutting off my own arm I would do that in a heart beat.. But I can't.. I can just promise to help her from a distance, send her money so she can buy good food and so her children can go to school...And Faines and Gracie.. Especially little Faines... She was born during my stay here, and I have seen her every day since. I know her every little move, her every little speciality.. the way she “curls” her nose when she laughs, the way she plumps with her lips... I know her every sound, and I know what it means.. It is as if she was my very own baby, and I just can't bear the thought of never see her grow up, start walking, talking... She will not remember me when she gets older, but I will think of her and of her mother everyday for always. I love them with all my heart.

 

Today has been a day of crying. Noone has been happy today. The security guard is crying outside the door. I am crying, Link is crying... Gomes is crying.. I will miss Gomes so much! We really became close friends these last months.. I really wish she can come to Norway or Sweden to visit me one day..

 

So, Tomorrow, the plane leaves. I've pealed the silver of my last ZAIN-unit.. I've eaten my last portion of Olivia-made Nzima. I've spent my last night under a mosquito net... Well, at least for this time.

 

I can really tell you, that this adventure has shaken my whole perception of life in it's foundation. Malawi, and particularly Olivia, has taught me that a human being has so much more strength inside than she can ever understand herself. And I am for ever grateful for that.

 

Next time I'll write, I'll be on Scandinavian soil. Hopefully closely held by Christian with a steaming cup of hot chocolate and a dolly dimples pizza in front of me... I am done here now, I am ready and longing to go back to my own world...But, it is not easy leaving a world that effect you so much more than anyone can ever understand.



Pics for the last two blog entries


My always smiling Olivia


Me and Olivia

Me, my husband and my baby...... =)


Olivia and beautiful Little Faines Emma (Emma is a name I gave her! Olivia wanted her to have a swedish name=))


Car break-down... (5 hours waiting....!)

We found a dead hyena by the side of the road...

Gule Vam Kules, dead hyena and Car break down(s)....

Yeah! We went to Mua Mission, half an hour from dedza, on friday. It is like a museum where you'll see all the traditional masks and dances and art.. It was really cool! very interesting stories. In malawi they have this "gule vam kule", it is demons that symbolize different thing. There are 10.000 different gule vam kules! every one has it's own mask. There is one for every disease, one for every behavior, one for everything.. Like there is one for dental hygiene for example. It is a big white fluffy thing big giant teeth and lice crawling on it. There are two for sex, one female with a big, vaginia-shaped mouth, and a male with a big penis-shaped shin. They teach how and when to have sex, and nowadays they also teach about condoms. There is one for HIV, he is quite new and really scary. There is one symbolizing handicapped people, he can't walk but he has a giant penis on his forehead. This is to tell women that even though someone is handicapped, he might still be able to give them children. The gule vam kules are people that dress up in these special masks and costumes. They may never tell anyone that they are a gule vam kule, and they take the secret with them in death. They come to the villages and chase people. If the person they are chasing don't make it into a house, they catch him, and wip him. They also come and do dances, telling stories and teach things. The people believe that they are really demons, and the persons doing the gule vam kule are chosen specially by the chief when they are still little boys. To make sure that they keep the secret and don't tell anyone that they are actually human, they go throug a ritual that ends withs an older man taking a live chicken and pushes a big stick in its anus, all to way in until it dies. It is supposed to die in great agony. they boys are told that if they ever tell anyone, that is the punishment they will get; a horrible and painful death.  Sick. I am not surprised that this is something completely made up and maintained by MEN... sadistic creatures....

Me and Christian got chased by two gule vam kules when we visited Wilfreds home, and I have also seen them many times along the roads. Sometimes chasing people, sometimes performing rituals. They are also hired sometimes for official dances and stuff. It is really cool! Christian, you remeber the ones dancing at Liwonde? Those dressed as different anuimals and demons. they were all Gule vam Kules. And those dancing with the masks at Crossroads aswell. Really cool!

Anyway, another intresting thing.. On the way to Mua mission, we found a big, dead hyena on the side of the road. It was HUGE! We stopped the car and looked at it, and it was amazing to see it so close. Just sad that it was dead.. I find hyenas to be beautiful creatures! So powerful and mysterious.. I raelly like them. And now when we were able so study it very close, it is almost a little bit scary to know that they are walking outside out house during night time... But they mostly eat dead or wounded animals, so I've never really been worried about them. But really beautiful was he, and I wished he didn't have to die... =(

On the way home we had SOME PROBLEMS....! we left Mua Mission at 11.30. The car ride is supposed to take 1.5 hour... We were home in Nkhoma at 7.30 PM..... Whats not right here....!? Weell, we had three car break downs. First, flat tire. Waiteed for three hours for soem poor guy on a bike to go to closest village to find a new one or to fix the old one. Then we drove again. 10 minutes. Battery collapse!! Or something, i don't know. But the next 1 hour and 45 minutes we were stuck in a muddy village on a dirt road, surrounded by 200 children staring at us! And the battery was outside the car. People moving around with it... Outting different things into the engine.. I ahve NO IDEA what they were doing, but it seemed to us as if they were building a whole new engine from sugar canes and sticks. THEN we moved again. We came out from the bush and the dirt roads, and BANG! New flat tire. Waiting, waiting, waiting.. New fixing, more waiting.... GAA!!!!!'' I walked around and asked people to get me guavas cause I was so hungry! =) (Guavas as GREAT!).

Anyway, we came home.. finally.

And btw, I fixed my hair again! Or, Gomez did. We started on wednesday, and continued eveeryday, 3 or 4 hours a day wed, thurs and friday. Then yesterday we sat for 11 hours!! the whole day. But finally we finished, and it looks really nice!! The braids are much smaller this time then last time, and much lighter to carry.

Ok!! goooood Night!!


Seven days til departure

Seven days is what is left of our 10 months long stay in Malawi. And I will be honest - I am realy happy to go home now!! =D But I will miss the people here so much.. I think the person I will miss the most is Olivia. Our housemaid. She is such a wonderful person, and she has so many problems in her life, but she never complains. You will never hear this woman complain. No matter what. If the things that have happend to her would happen to me, I don't think I would ever be able to be happy again. But se smiles, everyday. And she says "Aaa Pa libe mabvuto!" (=No problem!). Thats her motto, her... life's philosophy. No problem. Whatever comes, it goes.

But I know that she is very sad that we leave now. She do not know what to do, it is very difficult to find a job for a housemaid here. Especially one that has an OK sallary. So I decided to gove her some money, so that she can manage some months after we leave. And also, I will try to help her a bit from home as well, sending some money through western union bank. I have always been thinking of sending money to some kind of charity, but instead of doing that, i will send money to Olivia and her two little daughters.

Yesterday I gave her a farwell gift, 40.000 kwatcha, which is about 1700 SEK/ 200 US$. My mother helped me with the money, so Olivias thanks is most of all for her =). 

When Olivia got the money, she just sat down on the floor. And stayed there for half an hour. She was in shock! I sat down with her, and we talked about a lot of other things, but not about the money. She was unable to talk about it. Then, she stood up, did some work, and then she started laughing. the most beautiful laughter! =) She laughed so much she almost started crying, and repeated the sum of money she just had recieved. She couldn't believe it was true! Then she hugged me over and over again and she said "I am very happy!".

40.000 kwatcha for me would be a pair of jeans and a nice dinner. For her, it is almost a whole years sallary. It is food for her and her children for a year... You can imagine! It was amazing to witness how happy she was, and I felt that giving something to someone, is really the best feeling in the world. The most tuching thing was a thing she said.. she got a distant look on her face, like if she was dreaming, and then she looked at me, and her face burst into a giant smile, and she said "I can buy a chair!".

Thank you mama!! =))))
Olivia with Grace,  years, and Faines, 4 months. =)


Dedza, minibuses and farewells...

Ok! Where to start... =) Ok, lets go backwards..

Today (sunday)

Farewell party for Jan and Trudy at their home.

Saturday:

I can tell you one thing.. If there is one thing I hate more than anything in this world, it is the minibuses in Malawi. I hate them, even more than I ahte the witch doctors.. (or maybe not more... I think witch doctors, minibuses and spiders are sharing my number one hate award...). Yesterday, I woke up with this aching urge for chocolate!! I have not had THAT severe need for chocolate in years, but now it was just.. suicidal! (do I have to tell you what part of the month it is...?).. anyway, I decided to take a trip to Lilongwe. By minibus. Off course, as always with minibuses, you just have to be prepared for anything. No time schedules, over full busses, Goats in your lap, children screaming, crying, peeing, shitting.. drunk people, sick people, incredible delays, fuel shortage, car collapse, doors falling of, people hanging on the outside of the bus while driving... well, pretty much anything. I have gotten used to it, so that is ok. BUT NOT ALL OF IT AT THE SAME TIME!!!!! The drive to lilongwe usually takes around 50 minutes. This day, it took.. TADA! 3 HOURS. Yepp. In the middle of nowhere, the driver realised we had no fuel. dirver walked away. Waited for 20 minutes. Then we all went out of the bus and caught another one. Moved everything over and left. We never saw "our" driver again. In the bus, maybe it is supposed to take 12 people, we were around.. 25. whereof some were children (yep, peeing, screaming etc etc..)Plus 5 goats. Plus 3 chickens. Goats were screaming (cause people were sitting on them) the chickens were screaming and shitting everywhere. AND off course all the luggage. Horrible. The door was hardly attached to the car, so one guy had to hold on to it the whole way. Radio on MAX volume on old, broken speakers. Horrible, horrible horrible!!!! Warm, sweaty, tired, uncomfortable (do I have to tell you that the seats were only consisting of metal with no support for the back...?) GAA. Well. I got to lilongwe. Stayed there for 45 minutes

(ATM -->SHOPRITE (CHOCOLATE) -->back to busstation). The last busses back to nkhoma leave lilongwe arounf 4 pm. And I reached Lilongwe at 3 pm. Soo it was a shit. But luckily, I found my taxi driving friend, who offered to take me all the way back to Nkhoma in his c ar, in exchange for a small fee and a chicken I acutally happend to have in my garden at home (a patient gave it to me as a gift the same morning). He was happy, I was happy. Then i crashed in the sofa for the rest of the night.

Friday

Went to Dedza pottery. By minibus (woohoo!!!!). I had a lot of pottery I couldnt fit in my bag, so I decided to take it back to the shop and ship it home. It was very affordable. 10 kgs of pottery shipped all the way from malawi to sweden for 500 SEK. (Ca 50 euro).  So I had my last dedza cheesecake. The best cheesecake in the wntire world. Oh my god I will miss it... But during my divine, holy, "last-dedza-cheesecake-moment", a guy came up to me. He had heard me telling someone that I was a nurse, and he asked me if he could show me something. Against better knowledge I said yes (out of un-cureable curiosity). He took off his shoe, and his sock, and liftet to my face an infected toe full of puss. "What can i do woth this??" he asked me. The smell was petrifying.. I tried to look at the foot, chew and swallow my cheesecake and holding my breath at the same time.. Not very sucessful. Anyway, I told the guy a name of an antibiotic ointment he should buy at the pharmacy, and I quickly escaped. well... I guess it was in a way a good thing. It made my "last-dedza-cheesecake-moment" very.. Memorable.

Thursday

THE OFFICIAL GOODBYE PARTY FOR ME AND LINK! And also for Jennifer, Jan and Trudy who is leaving next week aswell. It was so beautiful, and very hard to realize that it was about us.. The whole hospital staff was there, clinicians, nurses, patient attendents, receptionists, cleaners, maintanance workers..... everyone!
And Mr Ter Haar held a speach, the general secretary held several speeches to each one of us.. I held a speach in chichewa! Big success!! =) The ward attendents were dancing, the men were drumming, we got presents.. And everyone was given food, beef stew with rice. We all sat together, watched the dances and ate with our hands (you always do that here. It is considered good behavior). It was both happy and sad, but honestly, most of all I am happy. I WANT TO GO HOME!!

=D=D=D


The ladies who cleans the hospital, sing and dance.
* * *

Women dancing, men drumming.

Speach!! Speach, Bilbo, SPEACH!!! (...)


Me, Link, and the hospital chaplain.

* * *

TODAY it is the 3:rd of APRIL and only 11 days to go!!!! YEEEHAAA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I watched the terminal this morning, you know the Steven Spielberg movie with Tom Hanks... And I absolutely LOVED watching the airport!! Im longing until I am at amsterdam Airport, Schiphol... Ooo!!! I wanna go Hooooome!!!

Oh, and two new things i will MISS when going home: Guava (fresh from a tree in our garden. Sooo yummie!!) and aloe vera. We have a big bush in our garden, just to go out, cut some leaves of and smeer the fluids into your face. Perfect, heals everything!! Does wonders to your skin.


In the bush

After some heavy days/weeks at the hospital,
I joined Links family (who came down last week to visit) to South Luangwa national park in Zambia. It was a kind of budget bush safari, we lived in tents and we ate outside. It reminded me of when i was a girl scout as a kid! =) there were i think 9 tents, but we were only 8 people, and all the other shared two and two so I got a tent al to myself. It was so nice, I slept like a baby! At least the two last nights. the first night I had a "bongolollo" in my tent. It is a bug, maybe 7 centimetres long (ICK!!), that makes a TERRIBLE sound! IT is so high you cant imagine! I have a video of one of them, but internet is too slow to put it up. You really have to hold your hands over your ears when it starts. I had to go up and find a camp security guard to remove it... ;)

We went on 4 safari tours, two day drives and two night drives. It was very beatiful, and the guide, Moses, knew so much. He was really really good.  The most interesting thing i learned was that an elephants penis, when erected, can weigh up to 27 (!!!!!!!!!) KILOS. Can you imagine...? 27 kilos. Puh! I am so glad I am not an elephant lady.

We saw a lot fo giraffs, hippos, zebras, Kudos, waterbucks, buffalos, Impalas, warthogs... Moongooses.. Hyenas... Crocodiles.. And even a leopard! It was really cool, we saw a bunch of impalas (small antiloopes) making a special sound, a warning sound for predator as Moses said. We watched them for a bit, and then we changed the direction of the car. and me and link who was in the back, suddenly found ourselves face to face with a ready-to-jump leopard in the bush. He quickly retreated back into the bush. We were so angry with ourselves for moving the car and scaring him!! If we had just waited a few more seconds, we would with no doubt had seen him run out of the bush and take down an impala! But weell, at least we saw him. AND yeah!! We saw baboons making more baboons!! I even took a movie of it. It was hilarious!! But my camera didn't work very well.. so the video is very fuzzy... But I tell you, It was just soo funny!!!

A little disapponting was the dact that all the lions were hiding for us. everyone else who's been there has described the msot amazing meeting with lions. But we didn't see a single one. The guide said we were the first group he ever had that didn't see lion.... =((( But we heard them, though! During night. They were roaring in the bush. Pretty cool!! Especially when you live in a tent.

The bush is beautiful, peaceful.. Quiet in the day, and in the night it fills up with thousand diferent sounds. It is an amazing experinece to see the sun set over the african savanna, smelling, tuching and hearing the nature. At one piont, when we stopped the car on the top of a big hill to watch the sunset, I just laid down in the high grass and closed my eyes. Just let my body become one with the dirt beneath me. It is just amazing.

BUT, I must admit... I have been on several safaris now, I live close to the bush everyday, I am living in the middle fo it. And honestly, sitting in the grass in south luangwa, watching the impalas and zebras... In this stunning beauty.. suddenly, I got a very clear picture in my head of Gothenburg train station. Cold turmac, chewing gums stuck on the ground, hundreds of feet running in every direction.. hot dog and coke from the kiosk... And you know what? I did'nt feel horrified. I missed it! SO much!!! I felt very strong that I would change all this beauty in a heart beat, for standing on gothenburg trainstation. wierd, huh? I think I've had it with africa for a while. Im tired of beauty and nature and everything.. don't get me wrong.. the world here is amazing... But I miss home, so much!! and I think gothenburg train station is the perfect picture of being on the way home for me.


South luangwa (pic taken from google)
vs.
Gothenburg train station (pic. taken from google)

Orphans and how to become a woman

Today I visited a school run by Nkhoma hospital for orphans. It was a very litte school, 30 children and no class rooms, not even a school building. They normally have their lessons under a tree, but now during the rainy season they moved in to an old chicken house close to the tree. It had not been chickens in it for a long time, so it didn't smell. The teacher was a young lady with a baby on her back. She was very enthusiastic, and the children were this day practicing counting 1 to 5 in english and the letters A E I O U. They were repeating the name of the number or the letter while the techer pointed at it on the black board (which was not really a black board, just a piece of wood put up on the wall). It was very fun to be there, the children where happy and eager to learn, they didn't even wanna go for break! =)

The teacher had her own little baby, and sometimes during the day the baby needed food. So she just started breastfeeding the baby and continued the lesson with the baby hanging from her nipple. That was so charming! =) Are teachers allowed to bring their babies to classes at home..? =) Is it even accepted to breast feed in public...? I think it is beautiful, and one thing that i love about Malawi is that no one here cares. a breast is a breast, it's meant for feeding your baby. That's it. No one looks strange at you for breast feeding in public here. They do it anywhere at anytime! =) It is completely natural. I love the simplicity here! =)

The school ends around noon, and then the childrne returns the their villages. Most of them lives with a relative or a family friend.

Did you know that one reason to all the orphans, it's the ceremoni they do in certain parts of Malawi to help a girl become a woman? for a girl to become a woman, she needs to live in the house of an older man for one month after she had her first period. The man has sex with her, and "teaches" her how to please a man. Most of these girls end up pregnant. But because they are very young, around 12, and not married, they are sent away for 9 months to give birth and leave the child with someone else. Most likely a grandmother. Then the child has never happend. the girl never had a child, and the child is classed as an orphan. That is why there are so many old women walking around with small babies on their backs. Sick tradition, huh??


When the grim reaper comes..

Yesterday he came again, the reaper... He came together with a beautiful little girl, 3 years old. Yulita was her name. She was very pale and anaemic, I checked her HB and it was around 2, but it should have been around 10.(in sweden: 20. Should be closer to 100). Positive for Malaria. Off course. His favorit victims.

Yulita was well nourished, no other problems. Her mother was very caring and sweet.  When she came, the first thing I did was to take blood sample for grouping so we could get her a blood transfusion as soon as possible. She was awake, breathing and crying, but I knew that with that Hb, she could just faint and die any minute.

Sending the samples to the lab, I discovered that the Lab staff was not at work. Ther had not started their day yet. tried to call the one on call, but the hospital phones where not working by some reason. Frustration started to get to me, the morning had been horrible concering that kind of problems. The room was not well equipped as it should have been on a monday morning; we had no gloves, no dextrose. No nothing. And the most important thing we have in that room is dextrose. But we had none. Because someone didn't bother to order it.  Anyhow, when Yulita came, I sent people in every direction to collect everythign that we missed. And after a while, we had most things.

I gave Yulita quinine for the malaria, and extra dextrose. Her blood sugar was very low. And I put her on oxygen.

She seemed stable, and the other nurses went to do soem other work. We discussed wither we shuld take her to the ward or keeo her in the room, but I wanted to keep her under good surveilance until she had had the blood transfusion. Before that, I did not want to consider her stable.

I sat by her side just observing her for maybe 30 minutes, she was breathing and looked ok. No blood yet. At this point, we had waited for almost an hour for the blood. And in an emergency like this, you are supposed to get in within 15 minutes. She was totally depending on oxygen, and as long as she was on oxygen, she was fine.

BUT... off course... this ins Malawi. Nothing works. And the oxygen concentrator suddenly stopped working. I turned it on and off, banged it, yelled at it, but it didn't want to produce oxygen. I called the electritian, and tried to wake up the child who quickly fell in to unconsciousness when she no longer got oxygen. I shook her, tapped her body, pinched her and gently slapped her, all to keep her awake. But she just fell faster and faster into the grim reapers arms... I called for help, and started CPR.  a clinician and a nurse came to assist, and we attached the heart starter. It couldn't sense any heart activity, and did not advise shock. So we continued normal CPR, and for 65 minutes I and the other nurse massaged her heart and gave her breaths. That is a very long time to do CPR. We intubated her, gave her adrenaline and dextrose.. the blood came in the middle of everything, and I ordered the pther nurse to start just pushing it into her little body. If she was to come back to us, heart heart needed blood to move around, otherwise the compressions would be almost useless...


I did everything I could think of. But after more than an hour I had to face it... I had lost to the reaper.. again. I dont know how many times he has been pulling children out my arms since I came to Malawi... I stopped counting. I didn't win this time either... But at least I gave him a fight..

Would she have lived if she got the blood earlier...? would she have been alive long enough to get the transfusion if the oxygen concertrator hadn't stopped working? I don't know... But what I do know, is that it is a very difficult feeling... It is even difficult to describe. Can you imagine how it would be to witness a beautiful little girl like that, die because the equippment is badly maintained, and because people are not where they are supposed to be? And you being the only one deciding what to do, thinking out the next step when the first time didn't take you where you wanted... Usually doctors decide to stop CPR after maybe 30 minutes. I continued for an hour. Becasue of many things... I didn't want to give up. I didnæt want to make the decission. I wanted someone to come and put a hand on my shoulder and say, no, stop it.. It is not working. I wanted someone else to take the decission. But I had to do it. I had to decide that she was not gonna wake up. 

All the time we tried to resucitate her, her grandmother stood by her side. Even when things got very un pleasant, she didn't leave, och move. She understood at the same time we stopped CPR that her girl was dead, noone had to tell her. She just looked at me, and looked at the other nurse, and started pressing Yulitas lips together, and then she looked at her, holding her mouth, and the she took her hand and closed the girls eyes. Then she closed her own, and started singing, high, and loud. The mother of the girl came in, together with the father. The fell in to the singing, and the mother gave up a wail you can't even imagine how it sounded. Like a wounded animal. Her child was dead. The sorrow and the pain she felt, must be beyond anything words can ever express. Then, the grandmother took Yulita on her back, tied her with a cloth, and walked home. followed by the crying mother and father. All the way home, they would sing and wail and cry.

No one should have to see thier child die... No one.

Mponda breakfast and african magic

Im right now having breakfast that my lovely Olivia and Wilfred made for them, and shared with me.. I was a bit (or, ok, VERY) sceptic to the over boiled cucumber like gunge on my plate. But believe it or not, it was so good!! It looks like a giant cucumber, så i though the texture would be like... boiled cucumber. Slimy. But not at all, really! It smells wonderful, and tastes just like fresh potatoes in springtime in sweden. Some salt on it, and it's just delicious! It is called "Mphonda" in chichewa, but I will try to find the engish name. Wilfred says it is raelated to pumpkin, but nicer to eat.

Tonight, I could not sleep good at all.. I was stupid enough to believe i was cured from my night mares and could with out problems read a scary book before sleeping, but not... =(  The book was called "Someone in your bed" and was about a could and dark creature that crawled up next to a girl in her bed when she turned out the lights... Ick. Not good.... especially not when you have hyenas lurking around just outside your window, howling, looking for food in the garden. We have had a lot fo them lately, around 11 pm they start coming down the mountain. You know when they approach, because all the stray dogs suddenly become silent. They usually fight, and bark och howl, but when hyenas are close, they all stay away, hiding. They don't want to get into a fight with a hyena... I really wish to see a hyena, I am not afraid of them.. But as long as you only hear them, they get some kind of powerful mysticism about them. And you can hear, right outside your bedroom window, but you can't see it, cause as soon as you pull the curtain away, it is allready gone.

There are a lot of stories about african magic here and the people really believe in it, no matter how educated they are. They believe that people can put curses on each other. They can make someone become sick as a punishment, or just because they are evil. Not everyone can put a curse or practice magic, only some people. the traditional doctors (witch doctors) can do it, and they can also shift they shape. They can turn in to any animal, preferably a hyena, and then they sneak around during night, collecting secrets from people, learning dark magic.  We had a situaton recentely in Nkhoma.. Some people burned a hyena, and the same day a witch doctor went missing. The newspapers put out the news; "Traditional doctor in shape of hyena killed". Everyone believed so, even the staff at the hospital. The scary thing is, that this witch doctor is still missing, many weeks later. So who know? Maybe it is true! Maybe there are not hyenas lurking around our house in the night, but people practising dark magic...?

When you ask the people here, why no muzungo (white person) has ever experienced anything, they simply say "Witch craft doesn't work on muzungo!" And  for them, it is true. Even the really educated ones, they believe so. I find it amazing. People here live so close to nature, and everything turns into magic.

A friend of ours, Keith, is a nurse at the hospital. And he is very educated, very modern and very "westernized" if I can say so. And even he says it is true. He once saw a person turn in to a beatle and fly away.


In the hospital, there was a guy in the staff accused for witch craft, and accused to put spells and curses on the other staff members and their familys. Noone wanted to talk to him, everyone turned against him, and it all ended with the hospital priest together with a lot of staff members walked from house to house in Nkhoma to pray together with everyone for this man.

Can you imagine the world I ve lived in for a year?? =)

44 Days!!

This is how we cook a chicken in Malawi!




TODAY we have exactely 44 days left in Malawi! I dont know what to  say... I long so much to go home, but it starts to feel... Very strange. to leave all this!!

Today i was in lilongwe. I tried to order two pizzas; ONE small to eat in the restaurant, and ONE big to take away. Noooo.... "What...?" I explained again. "Hmm.. Noo... We cant do that". So I say: "OK. Can I buy TWO pizzas?" "yes" "Can I Buy one small to eat here?" "Yes". "Can I buy a big one to take home?" "Yes." "So! Problem solved! Give me a small one here, and pack a big one for me to take home!" *Long paus* then:" No. That is impossible. You have to order the same size".. WHAT!!!??? Aaaa.... I was tired, no energy to discuss. So we compromised; I got 2 medium pizzas. Gaaah. But actually Im not annoyed, I just thought it was fun =) I just felt "aaaa this is My malawi! Everything is a mess, but it is so nice!" the pizza guys were happy, I was happy. Palibe mabvuto! No problem! =)


Blood going for HIV-testing.

Well...
It starts feeling sad to leave! I will miss everything so much!! The goats and stray dogs walking around in the hospital corridores... Chickens and children everywhere... Traffic jams caused by too many cows (??) on the road.. All the warm, smiling faces....
My Fanta-guys outside the hospital <3

AND
  the Nsima... Nsima everywhere! Patients sharing in the corridores, on the floors... You canät imagine how is is. It sound miserable, but it is not! It is so beautiful! The more time I spent here, the less I want to change. Everyone here is happy! They have Nothing. They are dirty. They have horrible diseases. Ther are poor. But hey are just smiling! Everyone is happy. At home, we are all so depressed, even though we have everything we could possibly need! So who is right... Africa or us?


Agogo carrying Nsima in the hosspital corridores

Now, we are going for dinner at isabelles house.

Bye bye! =)

Le Grand Finale!!!

The workshop continued, and we had a lot of subject to go through. It was very exhausting but I think it was good. People learned a lot. The most important subject of the workshop was CPR and TRIAGE. We made exercises and role plays conceringng both subjects. The staff loved it and it was amazing to see how everyone was attending and listening. A lot of things that seem soooo normal to us, that we have known since childhood, these people had never heard before. They had never tried CPR before. Can you imagine?? Heath workers without any clue of CPR.
But they really loved it, it was for sure a sucessfull workshop!! =)

And yesterday, THE GRAND FINALE! There were going to be a ceremoni. And what a ceremoni!!! The chiefs were invited, from all the villages close by, all the staffmembers, the whole management of the hospital and the team from norway, Solveig and Vigdis. There were a lot of speaches and celebration with traditional dances! And in the end, me and Link and bertha and nyathipa got to go up to the stage, and the chief and Solveig and the medical director and Sam Kabota held such a wonderful speach for us, about what we had done. It was... I cant explain it. Winning an Oscar maybe would feel like that.. Everyone was applauding and smiling, the whole staff! I never thought there would be such a big ceremoni! =D The medical director said

 "You didn't just help us start emergency care. Maria and Linn Kristin, you have been making changes in our way of thinking, and you have been changing our hearts".

It was so wonderful said! That has been our biggest task, to make the staff understand and care about the patients. We have been trying to change their attitudes, and It looks as if we are succeding! =D

Anyway, It was a Beautiful ceremoni and I think.. I will never experience something like it again. I wish I could show you the ceremoni!!  The dances were so amazing, and they were drumming... aaa! Amazing! Im Euforic!!!!

:D:D:D  Now I want to go home to Chirstian. Now Im done here. But weeeeell, seven more weeks... But that is not very long though. Soon I AM HOME!!!!


JAA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Om

Min profilbild

Miraij

Swedish nurse who lives and works in Malawi, Afrika. Together with my friend Link I am starting an emergency unit at Nkhoma hospital, Malawi.

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